Cos’è l’esfoliazione ed il ricambio cellulare
L’esfoliazione è il processo di rimozione delle cellule morte che si accumulano sullo strato più esterno della pelle, ovvero lo strato corneo. L’esfoliazione è un processo che avviene spontaneamente in ogni individuo: le cellule della pelle infatti, nascono nello strato più profondo dell’epidermide, ovvero lo strato basale, e poi maturano risalendo verso gli strati più esterni.
In questo processo di risalita, ogni cellula cresce, matura, per poi appiattirsi e perdere il nucleo: a questo punto va in contro a morte cellulare e cade spontaneamente. Se la pelle è in buona salute, ogni cellula si stacca e cade alla fine del proprio ciclo cellulare, attraverso appunto il processo di esfoliazione, un processo che noi non percepiamo ad occhio nudo ma avviene continuamente.
Questo viaggio di risalita delle cellule nuove fino allo strato più esterno, si chiama turn-over cellulare, ovvero “ricambio cellulare”. Le cellule “vecchie” sono sostituite ogni 4 settimane da cellule “nuove” e giovani. Fino a circa 25-30 anni di età il turn-over avviene dunque ogni circa 28 giorni, per poi rallentare progressivamente con l’invecchiamento.
Quali fattori influenzano il turn-over cellulare
Con l’avanzare dell’età, quindi, il ricambio cellulare rallenta, e di conseguenza anche l’esfoliazione. Ma, oltre all’invecchiamento fisiologico, a rallentare il ricambio cellulare ci sono abitudini quotidiane sbagliate:
- esposizione eccessiva ai raggi UV
- abuso di alcol
- fumo di sigaretta
- alimentazione scorretta
- mancata o insufficiente detersione
- scarsa idratazione cutanea
Insieme ad una corretta beauty routine adatta alla propria tipologia di pelle (Prenota qui una consulenza, se non conosci la tua!) è necessario cambiare le proprie abitudini per non ritrovarsi con una pelle spenta, ispessita e opaca.
Perché è importante esfoliare?
Quindi, perché è così importante esfoliare? Quando il ricambio cellulare è particolarmente lento appaiono sulla pelle una serie di inestetismi cutanei, causati proprio dall’accumulo di cellule morte sullo strato più esterno della pelle. Se non si interviene attraverso l’esfoliazione e quindi “forzando” il turn-over cellulare, questi inestetismi si faranno sempre più evidenti con il passare dell’età:
- ispessimenti cutanei
- pelle spenta e disomogenea
- macchie
- disidratazione
- linee sottili e rughe
- pori evidenti e peggioramento della texture
Inoltre, l’accumulo di cellule morte sulla superficie cutanea, porterà a difficoltà nell’assorbimento degli attivi e la pelle apparirà visibilmente poco sana.
Ecco allora che ci vengono in aiuto gli esfolianti, prodotti cosmetici che aiutano la pelle nell’eliminazione delle cellule morte, forzandone il distacco. Un’esfoliazione costante e delicata è il miglior modo per mantenere una pelle giovane e luminosa, eliminando grigiore e macchie, migliorando l’aspetto delle cicatrici (soprattutto quelle post-acne), ed eliminando i danni da foto-invecchiamento.
Esfoliazione fisica e chimica: le differenze
I prodotti cosmetici esfolianti non sono tutti uguali ed è importante scegliere il più adatto alle proprie esigenze. Generalmente, gli esfolianti, si distinguono in fisici o meccanici, chimici ed enzimatici.
Tra gli esfolianti fisici ci sono gli scrub o i gommage. In entrambi i casi, i prodotti contengono all’interno della formulazione dei microgranuli, più o meno grandi. Il massaggio di questi prodotti sulla pelle riesce fisicamente a staccare le cellule morte dall’epidermide. I gommage sono generalmente più delicati, adatti soprattutto a pelli più sensibili o ad un utilizzo più frequente. In alternativa a scrub e gommage è possibile utilizzare spazzole o guanti che svolgono la stessa funzione. Attenzione a non utilizzare l’esfoliazione fisica su pelli irritate ed infiammate, come per esempio su una pelle con acne in fase attiva.
L’esfoliazione chimica, nota anche come peeling, è invece un processo di rimozione delle cellule morte molto più profondo. Le formulazioni, sotto forma di tonico, siero o maschera viso, contengono acidi esfolianti capaci di rompere i legami tra le cellule morte fino a staccarle completamente. Gli acidi contenuti all’interno di queste formulazioni, si dividono in alfa-idrossiacidi (AHA o acidi della frutta), beta-idrossiacidi (BHA) e poli-idrossiacidi (PHA):
- l’acido glicolico è probabilmente l’AHA più conosciuto, ed è noto per la sua elevata efficacia ma anche per la sua aggressività: le pelli più delicate potrebbero infatti non tollerarlo! L’acido glicolico è anche foto-sensibilizzante, caratteristica che lo rende adatto solo ad un utilizzo notturno e solo proteggendo correttamente la pelle dai raggi UV.
- l’acido mandelico, è ben tollerato da tutti i tipi di pelle ed in tutte le stagioni dell’anno. Ha un’azione più superficiale grazie alle sue dimensioni molecolari: essendo più grande non riesce ad arrivare in profondità come l’acido glicolico, rendendo questa molecola adatta anche alle pelli più sensibili. Non solo! L’acido mandelico riesce a migliorare anche la condizione di pelli grasse e a tendenza acneica.
- l’acido lattico, così come il mandelico, è un acido piuttosto delicato ed è utilizzato come esfoliante soprattutto ad elevate concentrazioni. A basse concentrazioni infatti, ha un’azione fortemente idratante, essendo capace di legare a sé un numero elevato di molecole di acqua. L’acido lattico infatti, è uno dei componenti dell’NMF, il fattore di idratazione cutanea.
- l’acido salicilico, è il BHA per eccellenza. Con una forte azione cheratolitica, è adatto a pelli particolarmente grasse e a tendenza acneica, grazie anche alla sua natura lipofila che lo rende sebo-affine. Inoltre, ha una spiccata azione anti-infiammatoria, spesso necessaria nelle pelli acneiche.
- Il gluconolattone e l’acido lattobionico, sono invece due esempi di PHA. Questa esfolianti sono ancora poco noti, e sono molecole grandi adatte all’esfoliazione di pelli sensibili ed irritate. I poli-idrossiacidi hanno anche spiccate capacità idratanti, anti-età ed antiossidanti.
Un’altra categoria di esfolianti, sono quelli enzimatici: in questo caso le cellule morte sono eliminate dall’azione enzimatica di molecole estratte da materie prima di origine vegetale, come la papaia e l’ananas. Queste molecole, chiamate enzimi proteolitici, rompono la cheratina, e grazie a questo processo lasciano cadere le cellule morte. Questo tipo di esfoliazione è piuttosto blanda e preferita dalle pelli delicate e sensibili.
Quale esfoliante scegliere?
Scegliere il prodotto esfoliante più adatto alla propria pelle e alle proprie esigenze potrebbe non essere così semplice ed immediato. Sbagliare o esagerare con l’esfoliazione è una delle problematiche più comuni quando si parla di skincare.
Utilizzare, per esempio, uno scrub troppo aggressivo potrebbe peggiorare le condizioni della nostra pelle ed irritare la barriera cutanea. Ecco perché è importante scegliere uno scrub delicato, e subito dopo applicare sulla pelle prodotti idratanti, nutrienti ed emollienti. Certamente, lo scrub, a differenza degli esfolianti chimici ci regala un momento di relax, grazie al massaggio che facciamo utilizzandolo. Questo massaggio inoltre, può riattivare la circolazione e migliorarne il colorito, mentre la rimozione immediata delle cellule morte dona luminosità. L’esfoliazione chimica infatti, ha un’azione più delicata sulla barriera cutanea, ma certamente lavora in maniera più profonda e più lenta.
In entrambi i casi è importante valutare le condizioni della propria pelle e la risposta soggettiva ai diversi tipi di esfoliazione.
Controindicazioni dell’esfoliazione
Seppure l’esfoliazione sia un processo naturale, è importante non esagerare! Esfoliare più del necessario potrebbe indebolire la nostra barriera cutanea e assottigliare eccessivamente la nostra pelle. Una pelle sottile e sensibilizzata è più esposta a fattori ambientali, come freddo e vento, ma anche ai danni dei raggi UV. Quando si utilizzano esfolianti, è ancora più necessario utilizzare una protezione solare molto alta durante il giorno e in ogni stagione, o meglio ancora, evitare l’esposizione solare se si utilizzano esfolianti piuttosto forti.
Esfolianti di utilizzo domiciliare: sono sicuri?
È importante capire la differenza tra esfoliazione domiciliare e professionale. I prodotti in commercio sono completamente sicuri: basta leggere le indicazioni riportate sulla confezione per non sbagliare. Gli esfolianti chimici per la propria beauty routine quotidiana, contengono percentuali di acido sicure ed hanno un pH normalmente ben tollerato. I peeling professionali invece, fatti da personale esperto come estetiste e medici estetici, possono arrivare a percentuali di acido rispettivamente anche del 30% o del 70%. Questo tipo di prodotto va lasciato in posa per pochi secondi, avendo un pH molto basso, e poi tamponato velocemente e rimosso.
Nessuna paura dunque per gli esfolianti di utilizzo casalingo: le aziende cosmetiche ne assicurano la sicurezza e l’efficacia, purché utilizzati nella maniera corretta e ad esclusione di eventuali allergie.
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